A close-up view of the drywall being finished in the Mini Dome in black and white.

Drywall – Finishing

Drywall photo number 49.

Use a drywall tape alternative called Tape in Mud with fast-set hot mud to create a robust prefill base coat that eliminates the need for drywall tape.

Drywall photo number 50.

Dry mix the Tape in Mud with fast-set hot mud using a large paddle mixer, following the mix ratio on the Tape in Mud packaging.

Drywall photo number 51.

Scoop some of the dry mix into a mud pan, add water, and use a small ribbon mixer to mix thoroughly. Adjust with more water or dry mix to achieve the desired consistency.

Drywall photo number 52.

The consistency should resemble that of thick pancake batter or creamy peanut butter.

Drywall photo number 53.

Begin applying the prefill base coat of mud. Use a taping knife to press the mud into the gaps and grooves. Scrape off excess from the surface to minimize sanding between coats.

Drywall photo number 54.

Work quickly to use all of the mixed mud before it begins to set. Avoid overworking it or trying to apply it once it starts to harden.

Drywall photo number 55.

Focus on packing the mud deep into the gaps. Inside corners are tricky. Keep tools clean and mix small batches to avoid feeling rushed.

Drywall photo number 56.

Finish the prefill base coat, then knock down any obvious high spots with a sanding block. Only this prefill base coat uses the Tape in Mud product.

Drywall photo number 57.

Mix only the fast-set hot mud from now on, without the Tape in Mud product, and apply the second coat. Focus on achieving a smooth finish and covering all screw heads.

Drywall photo number 58.

Skim coat all plywood surfaces to be painted, including around the front door. Knock down any obvious high spots with a sanding block.

Drywall photo number 59.

Apply a third and hopefully final coat of mud, along with a second skim coat to the plywood surfaces. Check for flatness and keep the mud very clean for the smoothest finish.

Drywall photo number 60.

Sand all surfaces smooth with a sanding block. If imperfections remain or flatness is not achieved, apply additional coats to those areas and sand again.

Drywall photo number 61.

Round over both edges of the upper floor railing trim with a router. Do the same for the plywood ceiling edge. Continue softening sharp corners with sandpaper as needed.

Drywall photo number 62.

Clean all dust from the surfaces to prepare for primer.

Drywall photo number 63.

Drywall and plywood surfaces need primer before paint. KILZ Kitchen and Bath Latex Mildew-Resistant Primer is shown here.

Drywall photo number 64.

Apply the primer to the large areas with a 9 inch x 3/8 inch nap roller. Keep it wet, insure it is always rolling (never sliding), and feather it into already coated surfaces.

Drywall photo number 65.

Use a smaller 4 inch x 3/8 inch nap roller (shown here) and a trim brush to reach into and near the corners without smudging.

Drywall photo number 66.

Coat all plywood and drywall surfaces that are intended to be painted.

Drywall photo number 67.

Coat the upper floor railing trim and continue the primer onto the subfloor for a seamless application.

Drywall photo number 68.

Prep the walls for a second coat by sanding away minor defects after the first coat has dried.

Drywall photo number 69.

Apply a second coat of primer.

Drywall photo number 70.

The shower edge was taped to protect it from overspray, and the perimeter gap around the shower remains for future caulk.

Drywall photo number 71.

Detail shot showing the exposed steel bracket blending smoothly into the wall.

Drywall photo number 72.

Detail shot showing the texture created by rolling with a 3/8 inch nap roller. Using only a roller to texture the walls makes matching the texture of future repairs much easier.

Drywall photo number 73.

Congratulations on completing the drywall!

...more build instructions to come. In the mean time, let me know if you are interested in building your own.

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